Cosmetic dependency and aging

There are two main types of facial cosmetics: decorative cosmetics and treatment cosmetics. Decorative cosmetics, or makeup, are primarily used to enhance features or conceal imperfections. The goal of treatment cosmetics, on the other hand, is to delay facial aging. Contrary to popular belief, both forms of cosmetics lead to premature skin aging. Through the application of various products such as creams, tonics, gels and serums, the skin is exposed to a series of chemical compounds including: antimicrobials, emulsifiers, antioxidants, stabilizers, petroleum derivatives, plant or animal fats plant or animal extracts, vitamins, and enzymes. An average daily skincare routine may consist of a day cream, makeup, makeup remover, tonic, night cream and eye contour. This routine alone exposes the skin to between 50 and 100 chemical compounds, the majority of which will be absorbed by the blood and then processed by the epidermal cells. These cells detoxify the chemical compound before it is absorbed by the blood and into the liver. These lengthy, laborious processes undertaken by the cells of the epidermis and the dermis inevitably contribute to premature, or cosmetic, aging.

How to recognize cosmetic aging

From a clinical point of view, cosmetic aging often makes the skin: dull, matte, have visible pores, redden slightly, have a thickened stratum corneum, and have microcysts and comedones.

Cosmetic face

Just a few decades ago, these signs were characteristic of women in their fifties or sixties who had had thirty or more years of daily cosmetics use. Today, however, these side-effects are seen in much younger women and teenagers.
It is thought that the twice daily use of skincare products and cosmetics doesn’t give the skin cells enough time to ‘digest’ all the components that were applied the day before, which can lead to cell toxicity.
The resulting ‘cosmetic face’ can also lead to a dependency on cosmetic treatments.

Cosmetic dependency

The alterations to the skin following prolonged or excessive cosmetic use can lead some people to search out even more intense treatments in an attempt to reverse premature skin aging.
However, such treatments are in vain and only worsen existing conditions.
On the other extreme, if an individual stops using cosmetics for a few days on the advice of a dermatologist, the skin of the face will likely dry, pull, flake and existing folds or wrinkles will appear more prominently. Here, a vicious cycle begins – alongside the risk of a real dependency – whereby cosmetics and skincare are used to mask what cosmetics and skincare themselves have generated.

Cosmetic withdrawal

Stopping cosmetics and skincare does lead to withdrawal and, as with all withdrawal crises, it can be difficult to overcome and treat.
After consulting with a dermatologist, the most likely advice will be to continue with the suspension of all cosmetics and skincare products. By doing so, the individual can begin to regenerate the skin whilst slowly incorporating micropeeling and more sustainable skin cosmetics. Committing to this treatment plan is crucial to escape the psychological and physical dependency of skin products and cosmetics.

DermaClub suggests

The first thing to do is the so-called ‘Cosmetic Fast’, i.e. to abandon all cosmetics for at least three weeks. During these ‘fasting’ days, the skin gets rid of harmful substances and there is often an improvement in appearance. Since cosmetic problems are mainly caused by chemicals penetrating the skin, make-up should be done with products that have no chance of penetrating, being absorbed, being metabolised. Obviously, many people will want to carry on applying make-up or masking skin imperfections, and this can be done with cosmetic products made of ingredients that do not have the possibility of being absorbed by the skin due to their large size and are therefore completely eliminated in the evening by washing.
The two products with these properties recommended by DermaClub and therefore recommended for facial make-up are:

• Sun Clay, a compact powder made of clays and minerals that reflect UV rays and give the skin a healthy, natural glow.
• Argillina Skin Color, a foundation made with the natural colors of clays, combined with a mixture of natural polyglycerols.

Extreme Emollient Ointment can be applied to counteract the dryness that will likely occur during fasting. It will also smooth the skin so that wrinkles do not appear as clearly and, as the ointment is made of large polymers, it will not absorb into the skin. Apply in the evening and massage well.

What to do if your skin looks dull from overuse of cosmetics

To restore radiance and tone to the skin of the face, the advice is to perform Micropeeling with Glicosal lotion in the evening.