Sun protection: choose the right filter for your skin in the sun

The sun and the skin

When the bright rays of the sun hit the skin, many reactions occur. The most well-known are the negative ones caused by the energy of UV rays, which are so energetic that they break the DNA chain of skin cells. While cells have DNA repair systems, over time defects can still occur which can then lead to the development of tumors. The skin produces melanin, a natural filter for UV rays, to protect itself from the sun. However, melanin in light-skinned people is just not enough for protection, and other forms of sun protection must be added.

Suncreams with chemical filters

Suncreams contain chemical or organic filters that absorb and dissipate the energy of UV rays.
The chemical filters approved by US legislation are:

These chemical substances are capable of intercepting UV rays, absorbing their energy in various ways, and transforming it into thermal or luminous energy. While this transformation process occurs on the skin where the cream has been applied to, the operation as a whole could generate problems for the living cells of the epidermis.

Controversies surrounding chemical/organic filters

General controversies

In the last decade, studies have highlighted the toxicity of certain chemical filters permitted in sunscreens. This toxicity can occur: on the skin in the form of allergies or photo allergies, and after the absorption of filters within the body as hormonal interference or antiandrogenic activity. Further evidence on more complex effects such as mutagenic or carcinogenic activity within cells is pending.
Nevertheless, such data is food for thought when it comes to sunscreen use, particularly when used on children or pregnant women.

https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/

dermatological controversies

Proven dermatological controversies with sunscreen include:

• Sun protection factor (SPF) is misleading because it refers to a laboratory standard that is not replicable in real life;
• The application of sunscreen is uneven in quantity from area to area and rarely covers the entire exposed surface.
• Sunscreen increases sweating which further dilutes the cream and decreases protection.
• Some chemical filters exhaust their protective properties in well under an hour. While some can last up to a few hours, it is still not known what the actual protection duration of a sunscreen is.
• Sunscreen generates a sense of safety among users and therefore encourages increased sun exposure.
• Sunscreen provides only partial protection against UVA rays. UVA rays generate skin aging, meaning that even with sunscreen on, staying in the sun carries a risk of premature photoaging.
• People with dermatitis cannot use sunscreens because either the dermatitis worsens (in cases of acne, rosacea, melasma or urticaria), or because it blocks the beneficial effect of the sun on the condition (in cases of psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis or atopic dermatitis).

https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmed.2019.00195/full

Environmental controversies

Many chemical filters have been shown to negatively interfere with the marine environment and are particularly toxic to corals.

https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/news/sunscreen-corals.html

Sunscreens and a lack of common sense

Sunscreens were created to protect the areas of the body, such as the hands, forearms and the face, that are usually uncovered. Sunscreens were initially developed for outdoor workers or military personnel in particularly sunny countries. Any part of the body that can be protected with clothing during sun exposure does not require sunscreen because the clothing is the job already. The thought of readily handling chemical filters and substances, and then massaging them onto the skin or that of children is something that would cause most people to, rightly, balk. However, it’s what happens almost daily in hot weather. Many people and their children undress in the sun, slather sunscreen on to areas that should be covered by clothing and sit out in the sun. This suggests a complete loss of common sense and a departure from what sunscreen was originally intended for – to protect the few areas of the body that cannot readily be covered by clothing.

Physical or inorganic screens

In cosmetology, physical or inorganic screens are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These metal oxides reflect solar rays (scattering action) to protect the cells. They are more stable than chemical filters and provide a broader spectrum of protection that includes all UVB and UVA radiation. They can be found either alone or in combination with organic filters.
To provide uniform protection, however, these oxides must be incorporated into sunscreens at a high concentration of around 25%, otherwise, they agglomerate and provide only patchy protection. At high concentrations, however, the oxides will color the skin white, which is why these oxides are used as microparticles or nanoparticles. Preventing this unwanted aesthetic in itself poses a problem, as nanoparticles are dangerous to the body as they can be absorbed by cells. While the extent of the damage caused is still to be quantified, metal oxide entering a cell causes some degree of oxidative damage.
Creams with physical or inorganic filters, therefore, still do not meet the safety and efficacy requirements demanded by modern dermatology.

Light reflective powders: a lesson from prehistoric man

Humans have had to deal with sun radiation and skin damage since the beginning of time, and have used clay muds to protect their exposed skin for thousands of years. Once dry, these clay muds leave a compact layer of light reflective minerals that protect the skin. Today, many populations across the world still use clays for protection (clay photoprotection), with studies showing that such clays provide long-lasting, broad-spectrum protection that even reflects parts of infrared rays (IR).

From clay muds to natural, mineral light-reflective powders

Many clay minerals reflect sunlight, while soothing and calming the skin. These include not only clay (bentonite), but also kaolin, mica, montmorillonite and magnesium silicate. Combining clay with other, powdered minerals results in a natural powder with strong solar reflective power that can protect the skin cells. Once applied to the skin, this powder compacts and stabilizes itself, whilst also absorbing sweat or excess sebum. This provides photoprotection that is stable, long-lasting and broad-spectrum, protecting the skin from UV and IR rays.

From DermaClub studies to Sun Clay

DermaClub started its quest to produce natural, mineral photoprotection. With the help of cosmetic chemists, they succeeded in creating Sun Clay, a compact photoprotective with many advantages:

• stable, long-lasting, broad-spectrum photoprotection
• no absorption of chemical products
• no photochemical reaction
• no cutaneous occlusion
• soothing and calming for the skin
• can be used by those with conditions such as acne, rosacea and urticaria
• good environmental safety profile

DermaClub: common sense in the sun

Cover up in the sun. As long as individuals are aware of their phototype, everyone can stay within the sun within the limits that their skin type tolerates. However, after such time, seek shade or cover up with clothing, protecting any uncovered areas with Sun Clay to enjoy the sun safely. It is especially important for children and pregnant women to be properly protected. Use specially-designed beachwear that is practical, certified and stylish, that can provide additional photoprotection. Wearing photoprotective clothing and using natural, mineral light reflectant are examples of enjoying the sun consciously and responsibly.

Protection during sports and leisure

From soccer, tennis and golf, to running, skiing and rowing, outdoor sports have always been, and will continue to be, hugely popular. Although these sports are practiced fully clothed, some parts of the body remain exposed for very long periods. Applying sunscreen while playing sports is particularly pointless, because after just a few minutes, it will be dissolved by sweat. Sun Clay provides effective protection, while compacting with sweat making it effective even when doing sports.

In the sun, is it better to absorb or reflect?

It is definitely healthier to reflect.