Why moisturizers and lotions don’t work

To understand some practical concepts about the skin, such as how to prevent and treat dryness, it’s important to consider some complex concepts of cutaneous physiology. By doing so, it becomes quickly clear why moisturizers and lotions simply don’t work, despite the fact many people use them to try to keep skin soft and to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

The hydration of the stratum corneum

Skin hydration refers to the water content of the stratum corneum. Unlike the epidermal cells and dermis which are hydrated by blood serum, the stratum corneum needs water to maintain its structural rigidity and flexibility.
Good skin hydration is also vital for the efficacy of the epidermal barrier. Contrary to popular belief, the stratum corneum is continuously being hydrated as it lies above an epidermal layer that is soaked in water. This underlying reserve of hydration is infinite. Therefore, for the stratum corneum to actually become dehydrated, the proteins that bind or retain water must be in some way altered or diminished. This means that it is not necessary, nor possible, to externally hydrate the stratum corneum using lotions, or internally hydrate it by drinking more water. External creams can be useful when it comes to treating damage of the epidermal barrier. It’s still important, however, not to use generic moisturizers, but specific emollient creams that will heal the barrier correctly.

Moisturizing lotions

Moisturizing lotions are composed of water and fats. When applied, the immediate result is that dry skin feels softer and the problem may appear resolved. However, just a short while later, the water in the cream evaporates and the fats are worn away by rubbing, desquamation, absorption or subsequent washing. This means that the skin soon becomes dry all over again. Over time, frequent application of moisturizing lotions will damage the stratum corneum’s epidermal barrier. This damage is caused by the presence of emulsifiers in lotions that begin to dissolve the corneal lipids present in the barrier. The dissolution of the skin’s natural fats aggravates dryness, and causes irritation and itching, and is yet another reason as to why moisturizing lotions cannot solve the problem of dry skin.

How to maintain a healthy stratum corneum

To maintain a healthy stratum corneum, the epidermal barrier must be respected. The most common cause of barrier damage is from the frequent use of soaps. When used daily, these detergents will remove dirt, but will also begin to strip the skin of interlamellar lipids, of which the reconstruction is a lengthy process. The daily use of harsh soaps can result in an altered epidermal barrier that causes increased water loss, dryness, desquamation and itching. Women, children and the elderly are particularly sensitive to the consequences of harsh soaps and detergents. If the skin is dry and appears dehydrated, avoid applying moisturizing creams or drinking more water. Instead, try to reduce washing the affected area as much as possible and, in particular, avoid the use of soaps. As an alternative, use so-called Cleansing Bases (Eudermic Cleansing Base) instead of soaps or detergents. These are special washing creams that are massaged into the wet skin and then rinsed off. This cleanses the skin without depriving it of interlamellar lipids.

About Extreme Emollient Ointment

Extreme Emollient Ointment can be used if: the skin is dry and tight, the skin appears red or itchy, or if there are prominent wrinkles.
Extreme Emollient Ointment does not contain water and instead contains plant polymers that draw water up from the deepest layers of the skin to the stratum corneum and keep it there. Without using water, fats or emulsifiers, Extreme Emollient Ointment guarantees soft skin that can cope with cold temperatures and frequent washing.