Self-hydrating ointment vs moisturising cream: which is better?

Dry skin

Dry skin (xerosis) is a very common condition that can have a variety of causes. It can be triggered by the seasons, age, sun damage, hygiene habits and pharmacological therapies, as well as existing pathological conditions such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis. Dry skin mainly appears on the lower limbs, hands, and feet as these areas are furthest away from the heart, and therefore aren’t as nourished by the blood supply.
However, in some circumstances, dry skin can affect the entire cutaneous area, in which case it is classified as pathological skin dryness.

What causes dry skin?

It is often thought that dry skin is caused by a lack of water, and that it is something that can be easily remedied by drinking more or applying moisturizing creams. Both the hypothesis and the solutions here are wrong, however, as dry skin is actually caused by an excessive loss of water due to an altered skin barrier. Therefore, to remedy dryness, it is important to keep water in the skin, something that simply drinking more cannot achieve alone. Nor can using moisturizing creams, as they contain emulsifiers that create further damage to the skin’s barrier function and can, over time, aggravate dry skin.

Self-hydrating ointments

Self-hydrating ointments counter the negative effects of moisturizing creams, chemotherapy or micropeeling treatments on the skin, especially in pathological conditions such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis.
In practical terms, self-hydrating ointments contain a vegetable-derived glycerol polymer which plants use to draw water from deep within the roots up to the leaves. The same thing happens when applied to the skin: water is drawn up from the deeper layers of dermis to the stratum corneum, where it is released to soften and soothe the skin. The presence of isoparaffinic polymer, meanwhile, prevents this water from evaporating from the surface of the skin.
Self-hydrating ointments are named as such because, unlike moisturizing creams, they do not add any external water to the skin, instead using that which is already present. Not only do self-hydrating ointments not contain water, they are also free from emulsifiers and preservatives.
Moreover, the components of self-hydrating ointment do not penetrate the skin as they are polymers (large molecules) that remain solely on the surface.

Self-hydrating ointment in dermatology

Self-hydrating ointment can be used to treat all cases of dry skin, including that caused by cold weather, contact with water or detergents, aging, or the use of pharmaceuticals such as statins or cortisone.

Self-hydrating ointment to treat psoriasis

Psoriasis causes patches of dry skin that are always dry and flaky, and that can crack and fissure on the surface. The drier the patch, the more it itches and irritates.
Moisturizing creams and oils are not recommended for treating psoriasis patches because they penetrate between cells, creating further irritation and potentially worsening the psoriatic lesion.
Self-hydrating ointment, on the other hand, can be applied in small amounts to each patch and massaged until absorbed.

Self-hydrating ointment to atopic dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis is characterized by dry skin, which is present even when the dermatitis is not active. The atopic patient has a congenital barrier function defect, which means that their dry skin will worsen, or they will develop atopic dermatitis, if they try to use moisturizing cream with emulsifiers to alleviate symptoms. Therefore, when atopic dermatitis is not active but the skin is still dry and itchy, self-hydrating ointment can be used.

Self-hydrating ointment during antitumor therapy

Chemotherapy and oncological therapies with biological drugs can often make the skin very dry and considerably irritated. As moisturizing creams have a negative effect on the barrier function, they should not be used and should instead be replaced with self-hydrating ointment.

Self-hydrating ointment and micropeeling

Micropeeling is a proven technique in the treatment of acne and melasma, or to stimulate skin regeneration to target photoaging. However, micropeeling can make the skin drier. Treating this dryness with moisturizing cream would block the micropeeling action and could trigger acne because such creams penetrate the follicles and skin. If dry skin occurs during micropeeling treatment, self-hydrating ointment can be used to remedy symptoms.

Self-hydrating ointment in cosmetology

Self-hydrating ointment is considered the best treatment to keep the skin of the face soft and smooth, thus delaying the formation of facial wrinkles. Unlike face creams that contain chemical substances that are soaked into the skin, self-hydrating ointment is not absorbed and therefore is not brought into contact with any living cells. Moreover, while face creams can cause microcysts or comedones, self-hydrating ointment will not. Self-hydrating ointment can also be used as a makeup base or an eye contour.