The DermaClub alternative to sunscreens

The myth of sunscreen

It is widely known that the sun can harm the skin, causing sunburn, aging, and even cancer, just as it is commonly believed that using a good sunscreen can provide protection.

Why sunscreen is strongly recommended by dermatologists

In dermatological culture, and consequently in common belief, sunscreen is used to prevent sunburn, aging, and cancer.

Does sunscreen really offer protection?

Recently, the therapeutic properties of sunscreen have been called into question. This is due to the fact that sunscreen has been linked to dermatitis, skin aging and the development of tumors across the body.
So, what is the truth? With this paper, DermaClub will explore what lies behind the mirage of sunscreens in order to fully protect people now and into the future.

What is sunscreen?

Sunscreen is a product that is applied to the skin before sun exposure in order to protect it from the possible damage of ultraviolet (UV) rays.
UV rays account for about 10% of the rays emitted by the sun and are particularly dangerous. When they penetrate the skin, UV rays can damage the DNA of the epidermal cells and the cells of the dermis. They can cause considerable issues such as redness, burns, premature aging, wrinkles, epithelial tumors and melanomas.

How does sunscreen work?

Sunscreen contains filters which are capable of blocking or attenuating the damage caused by UV rays. Filters can be chemical (e.g. molecules that absorb UV energy) or physical (e.g. mineral oxides that intercept and reflect UV energy).

How do chemical filters work?

A chemical filter is a photosensitive molecule, which means it can partially absorb the energy irradiated by UV rays. This absorbed energy is then most commonly transformed into either heat or light emission.
However, many photosensitive molecules are capable of producing free radicals when stimulated by UV rays.
Free radicals are unstable forms of atoms that are generated by the impact of photons on the atoms of the molecules themselves. Free radicals can react with the structures of living cells, causing oxidative harm that damages the structures of cells, including DNA, potentially irreversibly. Unfortunately, some of the most commonly used sunscreens react to UV rays by generating free radicals.

How can chemical filters generate free radicals?

Avobenzone (Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 517, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) is one of the most common filters in sunscreens as it can intercept most UVA rays.
However, avobenzone is a molecule that is often used by the chemical industry to produce free radicals that are capable of starting chemical reactions.
Not only does avobenzone produce free radicals, but due to it’s oiliness, it is also absorbed b the skin. Furthermore, it becomes inactive after about one hour of application.
In modern sunscreen formulations, avobenzone has been coupled with the UVB-filter octocrylene, which seems to be able to stabilize Avobenzone.

What is octocrylene?

“Octocrylene is an organic compound formed by the condensation of Diphenyl-Cyanoacrylate with Ethyl Hexanol.
Octocrylene is also absorbed by the skin and acts as a photosensitizer, releasing free radicals.
Essentially, to stabilize an unstable chemical filter like Avobenzone, an unstable and easily absorbed compound like Octocrylene is used.

Can chemical filters be absorbed?

It was once thought that chemical compounds remained on the skin until they were destroyed in some way. However, recent studies have shown the presence of chemical filters in 85% of breast milk samples examined.
Once in the bloodstream, these filters can have an estrogenic effect and interfere with the reproductive system.
(Two European studies have detected sunscreen chemicals in mothers’ milk, indicating that the developing fetus and newborns may be exposed to these substances (Schlumpf 2008, Schlumpf 2010). A 2010 study by Margaret Schlumpf of the University of Zurich found at least one sunscreen chemical in 85 percent of milk samples.)

What are physical filters?

Physical filters can reflect UV rays, and include metal oxides (e.g. zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) and minerals (e.g. clays, kaolin, bentonite and mica). In order to be considered as solar reflecting, these agents must have a grain size suitable for purpose. For example, if the particles are too large, they will not be uniformly distributed on the skin; on the other hand, if they are too small (nanomaterials), they can be absorbed by the skin, enter the cells and cause toxic damage.

Can sunscreens trigger allergies or photoallergy?

Given the instability of many chemical filters under UV rays, reactions often form between the activated chemical filters themselves and the skin cells that produce the allergens or photo allergens that go on to cause full-blown allergies or photoallergy.
One reason for the appearance of the dermatitis that is currently so prevalent after sun exposure (e.g. sunburn, solar urticaria, itching etc.) is the use of sunscreens. The only solution to these previously relatively uncommon symptoms is to stop the use of sunscreens.

Can sunscreen cause other forms of dermatitis?

Certainly comedones (solar acne) is especially prevalent in young women when they begin sun exposure. It is mainly caused by the penetration into the skin follicles of chemical filters that have been activated by the sun. The irritation caused in the follicle induces solar acne folliculitis. Sunscreen can also induce melasma, which causes darker patches of pigmentation to appear.

Do sunscreens prevent skin aging?

The question of whether or not sunscreen prevents wrinkles is much debated among researchers. According to DermaClub dermatologists: people who use sunscreen develop a false sense of being protected from the sun and, therefore, stay out in the sun for longer. During this time, however, they are actually only partially protected from the sun’s rays and will soon undergo the usual oxidation reactions that sunscreen filters induce. Those who use sunscreens and who expose themselves to longer bouts of sun exposure will, therefore, experience accelerated premature skin aging than those who avoid sunscreens and excessive sun exposure.

Can sunscreens cause skin cancer?

The issue of skin cancers being potentially caused by sunscreens is also a hotly debated issue. For the same reasons mentioned above (accelerated skin aging), the use of sunscreens may be linked to some skin cancers, in that they encourage people into spending more time in the sun, while simultaneously exposing the skin to harmful filters.
New studies are currently underway to confirm the relationship between aging, skin cancers and sunscreens. This research will give more precise answers than those that have been available up until now, which have often been based more on theory than fact.

Should children use sunscreen?

Children should not be exposed to sunscreens. For the first time, the European health portal has used symbols to warn against exposing children to direct sunlight even with suncream. Instead, they advocate for sun exposure with a t-shirt, hat and sunglasses.

In reality, few adults are aware of this issue. With only good intentions, they will dutifully apply abundant applications of high-SPF sunscreen on the skin of children ahead of sun exposure. At this point, however, two types of damage occur: 1. The skin will not be fully protected from all the sun’s rays and will suffer the oxidative damage generated by the activation of the chemical filters. In addition, the child will probably remain exposed to the sun for longer periods of time. 2. The thin and permeable skin of the child, coupled with vasodilation in heat, provide the perfect environment for the absorption of sunscreen’s components into the skin, which will induce systemic toxicity. Among the various systemic toxicities from sunscreen absorption, impact on estrogenics is particularly worrisome, especially as the reproductive system is still developing in children. DermaClub dermatologists call on pediatricians to advise against the use of sunscreen as a means of UV protection for children and to accept the European directives for safe sun exposure.

Sunscreen and water pollution

All filters that are found in sunscreens are classified as being harmful to marine and aquatic environments. In theory, this means that they must be treated before being released into the water.
However, despite water protection regulations, sunscreens release other components that are harmful to the ecosystem including silicones, acrylates and parabens etc.

So, why do dermatologists and pediatricians advise the use of sunscreen?

In light of what has been written so far, the most logical answer as to why sunscreen is still being recommended is that dermatologists and pediatricians have not done their own studies and/or that, in good faith, they have trusted what the manufacturers told them. DermaClub dermatologists instead see and critically evaluate sunscreens commensurate with the data that has appeared in toxicology studies. DermaClub recommends the use of sunscreen only in specific cases.

UV protection: to be worn, not spread

Responsible, safe sun exposure is achieved by wearing clothing and beachwear that keeps the sun’s rays away from the skin, while allowing the individual to enjoy their usual recreational activities in the sun. UV-protective clothing is recommended for everyone, but is essential for children.

What about uncovered parts of the body?

Even with UV-protective clothing, there are parts of the body (face, forearms, hands, legs and feet) that may remain exposed to the sun.
These parts must be covered to avoid sunburn.

Mineral solar reflectors

For thousands of years, humans have used mud or clay to protect the skin from the sun’s rays. These minerals reflect the sun’s rays, meaning that the individual can confidently stay in the sun for longer without the fear of skin damage. Sun protection with mineral UV-reflectors is very effective and safe, as there is no absorption of chemical substances, no photochemical reactions, and the protection they offer extends to UV, visible and partly to infrared rays. Furthermore, clays have anti-inflammatory, soothing properties on the skin that are particularly useful during and after a day of sun exposure. Another advantage of mineral sun reflectors is that, unlike sunscreens, they do not decrease or exhaust their protective properties over time. Finally, they are water resistant and will not wash away or dissolve in water. DermaClub suggests the application of the UV-reflective Sun Clay, a compact powder that combines a mixture of many minerals that reflect the sun’s rays. Apply the powder with the pad before sun exposure. Sun Clay can also be used on children on the parts of the body that remain uncovered by clothing. Use of Sun Clay

provides protection while avoiding any adverse reactions or the absorption of the chemical filters found in sun creams.

Sun Clay can also be used all year round as mineral makeup, providing an all-in-one cosmetic with sun protection.